Plantation Blooms and Springtime Visitors

In what can only be described as perfectly serendipitous procrastination, our first plantation visits during our time in South Carolina also happened to coincide with one of the most magical and fleeting first weeks of the spring bloom. We kicked off with a Wednesday night wine stroll at Middleton Place where we enjoyed sampling a variety of wines while exploring the grounds of this historic rice plantation and admiring its numerous horticultural mazes. A perfectly summeresque evening, our first gator sighting and a few goat kisses were added bonuses to this delightful excursion.

The weekend brought the joyful opportunity to host two more visitors, Janet and Dean, as well as plans to visit two more Plantations. Saturday morning was spent in Mount Pleasant at Boone Hall Plantation. A National Historic Landmark with a founding date reaching back to 1681, we were impressed with the opportunity to learn about the lives of both free and enslaved people who have lived and worked on this land throughout the years as well as how the land continues as a working operation today.

Saturday evening was spent downtown Charleston where we enjoyed the cool ocean breeze and wandering throughout historic streets. An informative and relaxing carriage tour followed by dinner at 82 Queen was the perfect way to round out a rather eventful and enjoyable day.

Our Sunday adventures began with our third and final planation visit of the week: Magnolia Plantation and Gardens. As the name implies, the gardens were a main event at this expansive historical sight which also boasts being one of the oldest plantation properties in South Carolina. A tourist location since 1870, some pieces of the gardens are over 325 years old. A nearly four hour visit merely scratched the surface on what Magnolia had to offer but we enjoyed soaking in the miles of azalea blooms as well as admiring a diverse selection of swamp wildlife during the guided wagon tour.

Having earned a little beach side relaxation, the rest of the afternoon was spent on Folly Beach – toes in the sand while listening to the lull of the crashing waves. Post beach nap (and another round of oyster shooters), we found ourselves marshside at a fantastic boat to table seafood restaurant called LoLos. As the tide rose and the sun set, we filled our bellies and reflected on another weekend well spent with great adventure and even better guests!

MN Does SC

Last weekend we were delighted to host a few of our favorite Midwesterners when Minnesota came to take Charleston by storm! Although this city has seen its share of category five Hurricanes, the force of nature that our growing squad brings when we are together is something to be reckoned with. With everyone being spread out among different cities, the chance for us all to be together has become few and far between. When the stars do align and everyone is able to be in one room together there is just so much love, laughter, and joyful shouting to be unleashed! The volume is high, the pictures are many, and the hearts are oh so full.

Rivaling our burgeoning hearts during this weekend was our jam packed itinerary. A shoutout to endless caffeine, joyful attitudes, and the most selfless husbands (Mike and Mitch – you rock) for keeping everyone upright and moving while squeezing every last drop out of what Charleston has to offer.

Friday began with giant airport hugs and then a quick stop back at the Airbnb to refresh before heading to Shem Creek. With its quaint boardwalk and nearly guaranteed dolphin sightings, this area has become a favorite of Al’s that she was excited to share. For this adventure we decided to do a sunset kayak tour with Coastal Expeditions. It was a lush, warm night and the salty air blanketed us as we coasted through the creek’s marshy estuaries into the open harbor. A decadent golden hour, multiple dolphin sightings and our sweet Rosie rocking her pint sized lifejacket were unanimous highlights of this evening.

Saturday morning found us sipping coffee on the porch before heading to Firefly Distillery for a slow afternoon of music, bags, and basking in South Carolina sunshine. Then it was downtown to get our miles in while walking the Oceanside parkway and exploring the inner historic areas by horse drawn carriage. The evening rounded out with dinner at Amen Street where everyone had the opportunity to experience some of Charleston’s local dishes including she crab soup (a hit) and oysters (not so much).

Although Sunday began on a tad of a groggy note (may have been the after dinner drinks but we’ll blame it on daylight savings time) it was nothing a little church, Irish car bombs, and a beach day couldn’t fix. Creating our own little St Patrick’s Day celebration wherever we roamed, we enjoyed the day on Folly Beach before coming home to play cards and soak in our last few hours of being in the same time zone. Early morning flights brought an end to the coveted togetherness but the memories, laughter, and many many pictures will hold us over until the next joyful reunion!

Charles Towne Landing

During the first week in March we moved to a new AirBnb in the “West Ashley” area of town where we will stay for the remainder of our time in Charleston. Exploration of this new space brought us to Charles Towne Landing, a historic site now part of the South Carolina State Park system. This expansive space off of the Ashley River was where English settlers first landed in 1670 and its manicured gardens, historic homes, and other artifacts help tell the story of the first people who made up this South Carolina colony. We enjoyed spending the afternoon strolling among the live oaks, admiring new blooms, and immersing ourselves in imagining what it would have been like to live in this place over 300 years ago.

Weekend Visitor Edition: Adventures with Beth

This past weekend we had the honor of hosting Mike’s sister, Beth, for her first Charleston visit. Following a week of lovely mid-60s days, Beth flew in on Friday along with some Midwestern temps. Weekend highlights included kayaking at Shem creek, exploring downtown, and scoping out the warmest propane heaters on each patio we visited. Frozen toes aside, it was a relaxing and fun-filled weekend. Thankfully for those of us staying south, the mercury rose to a comfortable 71 degrees right about the time Beth landed safely back in Wisconsin on Monday. Fingers crossed for better weather next time, Beth!

Historic Home Tours: Aiken Rhett and Nathaniel Russell

Work responsibilities have ramped up a bit for both Mike and Al these past few weeks so with a Sunday off we decided to choose a low key activity close to home. The Aiken Rhett and Nathaniel Russell Homes are both located about ten minutes from our current Airbnb and have self guided tours composed by the Charleston Historic Society. We began at the Aiken Rhett House where we learned about life in the 1800s through the eyes of the Governor and Mrs. William Aiken Rhett Jr and the enslaved people who lived and worked on the estate. This home is maintained using a “preserved as found” preservation method meaning that the home is left in the same state that it was in after being sold to the Charleston Museum after 142 years of Aiken-Rhett family use. It was interesting to see a magnificent home in sort of a stage of disarray with tattered furniture and pealing wall paper. We enjoyed getting to use our imagination to wonder at the grandeur that must have been while also finding it to be an intimate experience to view the home in its current state.

Next up we drove a few minutes into downtown to tour the Nathaniel Russel House. A midafternoon rainstorm had driven a crowd inside and we were lucky to get a spot in line before the museum docents flipped the “at capacity” sign on. This home is preserved using a restoration approach that shows the home in the height of its 1808 splendor. Featuring a three story spiral staircase and lavish wood finishes, this house accomplishes the previous owner’s desire to impress.

Sandals in January and Other Delights

Our first month in Charleston has flown by! In reflection, we’ve compiled a list of some of our favorite things and simple delights that have shaped our first 30 days:

  • Sunsets at Shem Creek
  • Dolphin sightings
  • Midafternoon walks turned into multi hour explorations of an old naval base
  • Spectacularly sunshiney Saturdays
  • Finding Busch Light in the grocery store for the first time
  • Lewis BBQ (solid recommendation, Nate)
  • Beach runs
  • Rainy nights spent playing cards on our porch
  • Mini Cows
  • Historic homes
  • Daisy’s first Ocean swim
  • Channeling our inner Guy Fieri with our very first Diners, Drive Ins, and Dives experience (Tattooed Moose, Johns Island)
  • Live oaks
  • Snail mail (Thanks, Mom)
  • Packers Bar and -dare we say- quite possibly the best cheesecurds we’ve had this side of the Mississippi
  • Ascension Podcast (Shoutout to Father Mike Schmitz)
  • Facetime
  • A weekend of fun and family time in Savannah, GA
  • Perfect Sand Dollars
  • Unlimited possibilities for fun, food, and adventure

Weekend Picks: Charleston Tea Plantation and Congaree National Park

With plans to spend our weekend venturing outside of the heart of Charleston, we kicked off Saturday morning with a scenic jaunt to Wadamalaw Island. Our first destination was the Charleston Tea Garden which holds the title for being the only tea grower in North America. There, we looked out across 127 acres of pristine tea plants and enjoyed sipping on a variety of flavors while learning about the production process. Sunshine and friendliness abounding, it was a lovely (and free) way to begin our weekend.

Sunday crested with a soft sunrise and clear skies which prompted us to prematurely rejoice in not having the chilly/rainy day that had been predicted. About an hour into our drive to Columbia we learned to trust the weatherman as dark clouds and torrential rains moved in. Mass at the Basilica of St Peter with breakfast to follow helped our slightly dampened spirits and we were geared up and Congaree National Park bound as the rain continued. Inside the park, this spectacularly soggy Sunday delighted us in bringing the swampy ecosystem to life. Moss glistened, streams swelled, and the plucky plip plip plip of rain drops serenaded us inside the depths of the woods. Six miles of boardwalk and waterside trails gave us our first wild boar sighting (so neat!) and a renewed sense of thankfulness for the great outdoors – and dry socks.

Oyster Roast

Two weeks into our Charleston assimilation, the Oyster Roast became our next mission. With all the wonder of Jane Goodall, we studied the locals as they devoured oysters by the beer bucket full displaying amazing swiftness and speed. The giant vats of rolling water and steam piqued our interest as we passed by many an establishment offering up all you can eat oysters on our nightly strolls. Finally this past Saturday, inspired by observing an Oyster Shucking Contest on James Island, we decided to put our studies to the test.

Our “1000 Places to See Before You Die” book directed us to trust our oyster expedition to a local favorite – Bowens Island Restaurant. Located at the end of a marshy road, we arrived just in time to take in panoramic sunset views and snag our place in line to order. Armed with $2 “Mystery Beers” (Spoiler alert: they were Hamm’s) and our green, laminated ticket good for one bucket of oysters we proceeded downstairs to the roasting hall. We were told that in non-COVID times this space is filled shoulder to shoulder of friends and strangers shucking a never ending supply of the marvelous mollusks dumped into the middle of long community tables. In this modified world, the space was emptier and the tables separated but you could still sense the welcoming and jovial environment.

Once acquiring our overflowing oyster bucket, we still required a bit of tutorial. The art of prying open each shell to reach the meaty middle took some practice. It was slow going, messy work but after a little fine tuning of our techniques we both tasted our first oyster. The consensus: squishy, salty and better than expected! With triumph, we worked our way through the rest of the bucket enjoying the atmosphere and feeling a little more Charlestonian with each bite.

Fort Sumter and Historic Walking Tours

In an effort to get to know the historical side of the city a bit more, we took the opportunity to do a Guided Historic Walking Tour of downtown Charleston. We lucked out with getting the tour guide all to ourselves and were able to cover quite a bit of ground in two hours. It was a beautiful day and we enjoyed soaking in both the sunshine and new knowledge as we traipsed around cobblestone streets gawking at stunning historical churches and homes.

On Saturday we hosted our first visitor! Al’s brother Andrew was able to drive down from Virginia and we enjoyed a weekend of history, great food, and a Packers win (Go Pack Go!). The Fort Sumter tour included a thirty minute ferry ride to and from the Fort which allowed us to take in some great scenery and scan for Ocean life. Once inside the Fort, we were able to spend an hour discovering the space where the first shots of the Civil War rang out.

Restaurant Week

What do you call it when your first days of exploration in a new city coincide with some of the best food scenes South Carolina has to offer? Pure Bliss. Add in some killer deals and waterfront views and you’ve got yourself a decidingly fabulous and delicious way to get acquainted with new territory.

Our first night in town we stumbled upon the realization that January 7-17th is Winter Restaurant Week in Charleston. A collection of restaurants throughout the city showcase their culinary best with 3-5 course meals for deep discounts allowing patrons to try a variety of local cuisine and dining options.

Walking shoes tied and stretchy pants on, we dove right into this opportunity to experience Charleston one highly acclaimed eatery to the next. Over the course of this week we have eaten more shrimp and grits than is probably recommended and tested our tastebuds on other lowcountry classics such as buttermilk pie and fried green tomatoes. With southern comforts as our guide, we have scratched the surface on a charming exploration of Charleston. Full hearts. Full bellies. Cant lose.

Al’s Top Pick: Fried Oyster Mac and Cheese (82 Queen, Downtown Charleston)

Future Pass: Shrimp & Grits (delicious, but may need a break after eating them every day for a week)

Mike’s Top Pick: Hush puppies (good everywhere but stuffed with seafood and especially great at Fleets Landing, Charleston Waterfront)

Future Pass: She Crab Soup (Allegedly award winning at every location but this creamy soup made with crab eggs missed the blue ribbon in his book.)

Bonus Menu:

  • Saw our first dolphins – pure magic!
  • Enjoying exploring the city by foot
  • 60 degrees and sunshine – soak it up!